This has to be the most romantic spot in Germany. That was my first thought on seeing Schwanenwerder Island, a tiny peninsula on the edge of Berlin’s Grunewald, so named after the swans that swim on its sparklingly clear lake.
But wandering past handsome houses with large gardens and high walls, I found something decidedly less romantic at its heart.
The stately white mansion at No 28 Inselstrasse, with lush lawns rolling down to the water’s edge, once housed the first Nazi bride school, an institution established by the regime to train young women in obedience, housekeeping, child-raising and – most importantly – loving the Führer…
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